Many people are interested in breeding their own
chickens but decide to buy point of lay chickens
simply because they feel they are not set up for
breeding chickens or that it is complicated and
time consuming. Breeding chickens is really quite
simple and with lots of small
incubators on the market now, you can
actually incubate as few as seven eggs.
Incubating eggs is very rewarding and if you have
children, they will absolutely love the experience
of raising their own chicks and of course will learn
an awful lot about how chicks are reared and what
happens to them as they grow. Follow a few basic
rules and you will be rewarded by a lot of fun and
excellent eggs for years to come.
Chicken eggs take 21 days to hatch (please refer
to your incubator user manual) and chicks require
basic care for the first 6 weeks of their life:
a brooder with clean bedding, food and water. A
brooder is a special heater for baby birds and by
extension refers to the heated container or area
the chicks are kept in. So let’s take a look
at the elements of this brooder.
Housing:
A
small container such as a cardboard box, wooden
crate or plastic bin lined with paper towels and
bedding is suitable for freshly hatched chicks.
Make sure the container is big enough for a cool
side with food and water and a warm side with
the brooder or heat lamp. As the chicks grow they
will require more space and will also start fluttering.
An enclosed cage like those suitable for rabbits
or ferrets is a nice, easy to clean option to
keep them contained.
When
the chicks are about 3 weeks old, you should also
consider adding a roost such as a piece of wood
dowelling about 4" off the floor of the cage.
The chicks will jump on it and may even begin
sleeping there. Be careful not to put the roost
directly under the heat source as it would be
too hot. If you’re using our EcoGlow
chick brooder you’ll find that chicks will
roost very happily on its top and sides.
Bedding:
Sawdust
or pine shavings are recommended. DO NOT use cedar
shavings; cedar has oils which are toxic to the
chickens’ respiratory system.
Straw is another possibility but it tends to smell
and attract bugs when wet. It also can harbor
mites.
Try not to have newspaper in direct contact with
the chicks as the ink may be toxic and chicks
will instinctively peck at everything. Some newspapers
can also be slippery and cause splayed legs, a
condition which occurs when the chicks repeatedly
slip and their legs begin to split apart. If this
happens you can carefully strap the legs together
but prevention is best.
The
bedding should be changed out every couple of
days, and never allowed to remain damp - cleanliness
is VERY important at this stage. Baby chicks are
prone to a number of diseases, most of which can
be avoided with proper sanitation.
Heat
source:
Newly hatched chicks
should not be removed from the incubator until
they are fully dry and fluffed up, otherwise they
could chill and die.
You
can use a brooder such as our EcoGlow
chick brooder or a heat lamp. The floor temperature
should be around 95-100°F for the first week
and can then be reduced weekly by 5°F until
the chicks can maintain their own body temperature
and are fully feathered. This is usually done
by adjusting the height of the heat source.
Chicks will find their own comfort zone moving
under or away from the heat source as they require.
Observing their behavior will help you determine
if the heat source is at the right level from
the floor. They will huddle together under it
and shiver if too cold. Conversely they will spread
out and away from the heat source and pant if
they are too hot.
At 6 weeks the young chickens can be acclimatized
to the outside providing the temperature is not
too cold. If it happens to be very cold you may
need to introduce the chickens gradually.
Water:
Just
before hatching chicks absorb the remainder of
the yolk sac which provides them with nutrition
for a couple of days after hatching but they will
need water as soon as they are transferred out
of the incubator. Fresh water should always be
available and placed on the cool side away from
the heat source. Make sure to clean it at least
once a day (chicks will poop in their food and
water) and if you’re not using a fountain
type drinker (as shown) be sure to put marbles
in the saucer or deeper waterers as young chicks
can drown.
Food:
Chicks
will instinctively scratch for food so it’s
best to use a feeder with a lid as shown. You
may give the chicks crushed cooked egg yolk initially
until you get chick crumbs which are specially
formulated for chicks. This complete food is available
in medicated, non-medicated or organic formulae
and answers all their needs.
However,
feeding your chicks treats can be fun. After the
first week or two, you can give them a worm or
two from your garden to play with and eat. Although
adult birds will eat a lot of vegetation, greens
are not recommended when they’re young as
they can cause diarrhea-like symptoms. When droppings
are loose, a condition may develop called "pasting
up", where droppings stick to the vent area
and harden up, preventing the chick from pooping.
Check the chicks for pasting - if you see any
signs of it, clean off the vent area using a moist
towel or even some mineral oil.
Play
time:
Chicks
are insatiably curious - after the first week
or two, they can be taken out of their enclosure
for short periods of time if the temperature is
warm. They MUST be watched at this age, however.
Chicks can move fast, squeeze into small spaces,
and are helpless against a variety of predators,
including the family dog or cat.
If they have bonded to you (the first large thing
a baby chicks sees is forever it's 'mama', this
is called "imprinting"), they will follow
you around. Chickens become fond of their owners;
some will come when you call them (and some won't!).
Chicks
grow fast so start planning their outdoor housing
requirements early. They will need a coop and
a run but that’s another project!
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